A Time for Humber.

"Did you say 'Epic Walk'?"

Who does not long for freedom?  As children, despite the varying magnitudes of restrictions that are placed upon us by our parents, we are at our most free.  We are free within our bodies.  Uninhibited in our souls.  Our thoughts and imaginations soar without boundaries.  Who we are to become is full of such limitless possibilities. 

For children of the modern age, where childhood has been deemed as most precious and the domain of play and dreams, the greatest freedom of childhood is Time.  It stretches before them vast and infinite, progressing slowly.  There is all the Time in the world in which to dream and explore.  The particular golden blessing of the modern child is the summer vacation.  Sure, it may be filled with camps, play dates, soccer games and museum outings.  However, even the most rigidly scheduled child will experience a slowing down, a greater freedom.  There is always that sense that there are a million things that can be accomplished before heading back to school and a million years in which to accomplish them all. 

As adults, pressured under the constraints of work and family, of obligations and bills, Time, and the freedom it allows, is much more precious.  When you are a mom who works full-time, also holds down a part-time job, writes and, for the most part, parents alone, Time and freedom are more rarer and treasured than diamonds and platinum.  Time is no longer a freedom but nagging task-master and who we were becomes lost to it’s constant demands. 

One of the things I have wanted to do for the last few years was to walk the entire Humber Trail from the top of the City down to the Lake.  I have done the whole thing in short two or three hour looped or backtracked segments but never the whole thing at once.  It has always seemed something that would have to be put off.  As a working mom with little support, my days lie rigidly tied to the confines of the school day and my own odd work hours.  My evenings are busy ferrying my children from one activity to another.  I also walk dogs during the day.  While my own dog is a trooper, my other pals don’t have the kind of endurance to go past a couple of hours.  It’s difficult to schedule in that kind of epic adventure with the life that I lead.

A month ago the stars lined up beautifully.  My husband had been sent home from his work assignment in Saskatchewan nursing a broken arm and would be around to meet our children after school.  None of the other dogs I walk needed to be walked that day.  It was cool but sunny, so it likely wouldn’t be too hot for my pup.  It was probably my one and only chance this year to give it a go and I grabbed it, even though I had pressing things to do with work and my home.  Wanting to try some serious hiking this year, it would be the perfect opportunity to see just how big a hike my dog would be happy to endure and to also gauge how much food and water to pack for him as I’ve never taken a long hike with him before.  If I ran into any problems, I live a very short drive from most access points to the trail, so it would be easy to call my husband to pick us up if we needed.  A good trial run. 

I ended up starting much later than I should have because we did need to wait and see what arrangements my husband could make for some last minute doctors appointments.  If I had to be home to meet the kids, the dream would be shelved for another day.  I would have preferred to have gotten the show on the road by 8:30 am but he wasn’t able to make confirmations until midmorning.

  

I packed up, in my better backpack, over a gallon of water, food for both him and me, sunscreen and hat, sunglasses and rain poncho.  I loaded up a fanny pack with the dog’s travel water bowl, a water bottle for me and a few small necessities.  I decided a pair of yoga pants, T-shirt and comfy sneakers would be the best bet for the day.  Yoga pants or splash pants are my pants of choice when dog walking because I don’t care when the dogs jump all over them.  When my buddy saw me pull those on, he went gonzo.  He knows what walking pants are for.  

My husband dropped me off near Kipling and Steeles and I picked up the trail on what seemed to be a service road.  Although nearby apartment towers loomed over the tops of the trees I felt incredibly isolated and alone.   I walked deep in the dappled shadows of urban forest, the trees themselves only allowing the briefest glimpse of nearby towers.  It was green, all the greens of the natural world.  The greens I dream of, cool and dappled, as I sit for hours and hours in my grey cubicle in the sky.  The crisp gravel beneath my feet, the breeze through the trees and soft birdsong provided a gentle soundtrack to my lonely trek.  

From the start, it seemed as though I drifted through a dream...

It was almost an hour before I saw another person.  Once I joined up with the main paths at Rowntree Mills Park, it was raucous children and dogwalkers all around.  I ran into a young woman and her beautiful dog in one of the parking lots there and she joined me for a while and chatted.  I was grateful for her company and she was very informative about the coyote and deer sightings in the area and some of the regular peoples and goings on in the park.  I think in all my time of walking in the trail I have never once come across someone so friendly.  Usually people might say hello or exchange smiles and a little back and forth about dogs or the weather.  It was enjoyable to have a little connection and conversation.  Because of safety considerations, I don’t usually listen to music when I am hiking.  I prefer to be aware of my surroundings.  So usually it is just my lonely inner dialogue and me.  

Gentle drifts of purple and white followed me, beckoned me, until I was dashed upon the harsh shores of highway and concrete...

My journey through Rowntree Mills Park is short and, with good and pleasant chatter to speed the time, I was in Blue Haven Park before I knew it.  About halfway through the park I was compelled for reasons unknown to look behind me and spied a deer.  Soft in shadow as if a dream.  We mutually froze on the spot and gave each other a good, long, silent stare, and then, suspecting I wasn’t much of a threat, it meandered up the path and into the trees.  I’ve seen deer a few times up this way now and then and it’s always a breathtaking sight. I was lost in a daze for a while after that.  

I only remembered my camera when it was too late.

I gradually made my way to Summerlea Park.  It’s a big park and It took forever to walk.  I haven’t been able to determine the square acreage but I am certain that it is the same size or even bigger than High Park.

Hydro lines slice through the heart of Summerlea

Counting 20 minutes to rest, water up and eat it took roughly two and a half hours to traverse it from end to end.  As I passed a retention pond, I could hear hymns drifting over the water, haunting and atmospheric.  At first I thought it might be a TV or radio from a nearby apartment tower but it turned out to be a prayer meeting in a recreation building at the back of the park.  It was another long walk with hardly another soul in sight, but peaceful and beautiful.  One of my favourite go-to walks. 

Despite the signs of human life all around, Summerlea is often vacant and unused.

Then it was through Pine Point Park, a short little thing that I have written on before.  At the south end of the park, one is forced under the 401 to continue on the trail.  Usually there is ample room to manoeuvre under there but the overpass is currently being repaired and foot and bicycle traffic is forced through a very narrow passageway.  Twice, in the short span of time that it takes to traverse it, I was almost bowled over by a cyclist going way over the speed limit (and there are extraa signs posted at both entrances even reminding cyclists to slow down).   He didn’t even have a bell or bothered to call out to let me know he was behind me.  I have encountered this fellow back here before. Most cyclists and pedestrians do their best to share the path, but he’s a bit of a bully.  First aggravation of the walk.

A tight squeeze under the 401.

The second frustration came shortly after at the end of Crawford-Jones Park.  Here, the trail ends and to pick up the next portion of it you have to walk down Weston Road a short distance.  Normally this isn’t too bad, but for the next couple of years this corner is going to be under continued construction as Metrolinx work swings into full gear.  

The noise after five hours of isolation was jarring.  The exhaust from cars and buses and the dust from all the construction work was choking.  The traffic was snarled and angry and impatient with the long waits.  My plan had been to walk along Weston and join up with the official entrance at Cruikshank Park but I quickly decided against that.  I headed down the stairs at St. Philips Road, not the safest of choices when walking alone, but a far more pleasant alternative that offered a very quick escape and meant not having to endure an attempt of crossing over St. Phillips Road. 

Back to green and life.

 The path underneath St. Philips is isolated, nothing more than a narrow dirt footpath.  The branches of the surrounding trees dip low onto the path and the grass grows tall on either side.  It is claustrophobic and eerie.  A dead dog or coyote spied in the grass only intensifies my uneasiness.  

The type of sight one might expect in a horror film...  There be chainsaws and masked men here, I know it.

Another rest in Cruikshank Park made me suddenly aware of how out of shape I really had become after the winter and a prolonged illness.  My legs ached.  It was there I regretted not bringing another gallon of water (my dog is a little water obsessed), more dog food and a sweater for myself.  Ominous clouds had been rolling in over the course of the afternoon and the temperature dropped considerably, chilling my enthusiasm.  We lingered a little longer here than at our last break while my dog enjoyed a good stick.  This is a short chain of three linked parks but, by this time, I was also feeling a little discouraged as this portion of the trail runs east/west instead of north/south and, after having spent a good portion of the trail in Summerlea going the same direction, I really hadn’t felt like I made much progress during the previous four hours.  

Hurricane Hazel Victims memorial at Raymore Park

Raymore Park turns north/south again and the short but steep climb at the South portion of it was a killer given the already five plus hours of walking I had endured. 

The river is strong here.

By the time we reached the Ukrainian Canadian Memorial Park I could tell that my poor dog had had it.  He was still very perky, but was definitely tiring out.  While waiting for the lights to change at Scarlett and Eglinton I gave my husband a call and asked him if he could pick up the dog at James Gardens.  This is another frustrating section of the trail which temporarily forces the user to deal with traffic, and by then it was rush hour.  I could walk the path further down to James Gardens but decided to get off and cut across Edenbridge Drive and wait at the main entrance to the park.  I drive across there all the time but didn’t realize the entrance to the park was so far from the eastern end of the road.  This is one of the most pedestrian unfriendly roads in the entire city.  Much of the road does not have a sidewalk.  The shoulders of the road are very narrow with deep ditches almost immediately next to them.  Despite the million dollar price tags of the homes along there, many lawns are unkempt and not conducive to walking.  Cars whiz by at speeds much higher than the posted limit.  I keep my dog very close and do my best to move as quickly as I can to my destination.  

It had been my intention to carry on without the dog and just TTC it home when I was done.  By the time I got to James Gardens, though, it was 5:30 p.m.  I began to think about some of the more isolated portions I had to walk through further down and the time it had already taken me to walk the distance so far and decided I didn’t want to do it completely alone.  Disappointed, I called it a day.  The trail isn’t going anywhere, and for the time being, neither am I.  It certainly wasn’t a waste of Time, it was an incredible gift of Time.  I am immensely grateful for the day of freedom I was given which I have not experienced since I had children.  It was recharging.  Even now, when I feel a little overwhelmed by the demands of my life, I seek refuge in those rippled greens, dreamy purples, the gauzy soft deer, the feel of a cool breeze on my face, and the fleeting glimpse of the person I had once been all those years ago, when Time was all I had.    

Journey's end.

Let’s save it for another day, hopefully another window will open up this year.  

The next day I kind of thought that when I put on my walking pants my dog would run hiding, but no, he was totally ready to get back at it, even if it was just around the block this time.  

There are a few comments to give a heads up to anyone who may want to attempt a longer walk through here.  Bring a buddy.  There are a considerable number of isolated stretches that are just not very popular, and it can be a very long time before you see anyone.  Meet up with the wrong person and it could quickly turn a pleasant outing upside down.  Coyotes are also frequently spotted in many sections of the trail.  Be aware and vigilant for them.  Be prepared for a serious lack of access to bathroom facilities and fresh water.  If there isn’t a facilities building located in a park, there will usually be a port-a-potty, but only in the summer months and they may be located at the main entrance of the park which may not handy or marked from the main trail or easy to miss.  Summerlea, in particular, stands out as you would have to leave the trail for a considerable distance before hitting the main entrance.  Peeing out in the open in Toronto parks is illegal but I’ve come across volumes of people seeking relief in the bushes on my various treks and it’s easy to understand why.  I was also nervous about tying my dog up if I did use one because I did not want people to think I was abandoning my dog and usually there is never anything handy to tie him up to even if I wanted to.  The port-a-potties are usually out in the wide open some distance a way from trees or fencing.  I have never used one either so I also can’t vouch for the condition or cleanliness.  I did not notice one working water fountain the entire trek.  If there was one visible from the path I stand corrected. If you’re going to do an extended walk on the trail, pack your own water and pack a lot.  There were also very long stretches without a garbage can, so be prepared to tote your garbage and dog waste bags. Again, at the time, Summerlea was by far the worst for lack of garbage cans (this situation has now been somewhat corrected).  There are many rules but not much assistance to ensure users don’t break them.  Things like this are never too much of a concern if you on a short walk but were issues for me on the longer trek.  

In the end it took me over seven hours to walk the stretch that I did.  Keep in mind that I am a very short person and my brisk gait is a slow crawl for most people.  I was also travelling with a canine companion, which meant frequent breaks to water, eat, rest, pee and poop-and-scoop. It totalled out to roughly 9.7 miles.  

Useful Information:

• Duration of Walk:  Roughly four to seven hours (based on short legs, picture taking and doggy care)
• Difficulty: EASY.  Relatively flat terrain throughout.  A few short steep hills, mostly paved, with some gravel and dirt paths.
• Parking:  Lots of parking available at various park entrances. 
• Washrooms:  Yes.  Facility buildings and Port-a-Potties only at park entrances. 
• Local Coffee Haunts:  No.  Really not much of anything. Coffee dies North of Bloor Street.  
• Safety Factor:     Medium-High.  Buddies are best.  Be watchful for coyotes  
• Special Gear?:   A good pair sneakers, food and water.
• Suitable for Dog Walking?:  Yes.  Dogs must be on leash.

Happy Trails!

Strolling along the Humber

The Humber, as seen between Cruikshank and Lions Park, near the intersection
of Lawrence Ave. W and Weston Road, Etobicoke

[This is an intro to a series of walks that I will be posting in relation to the Humber River.  While I have have walked the whole of the river from the City boundaries to the Lake, I have yet to attempt an full, unbroken trek from the top of the city to the bottom, but have plans to do so in 2011. ]

Toronto has the unique distinction of having Canada’s only designated urban Canadian Heritage River flowing through it’s bounds, the Humber River.  This beautiful river gently dissects the city from top to bottom with a graceful, peaceful ribbon of green.  The river is one of two that divides the city, creating natural geographical boundaries that physically separate the city into distinct regions.  The other is The Don River Valley on the East side of the City.  I have yet to make my way to the Don yet, but I’m slowly moving eastward in my treks and hopefully I can start some trekking there this summer.

Temporarily Tamed by Winter's Touch

What makes the Humber so culturally important and why should you care?  First and foremost it is beautiful.  It wends and twists and gently curves it’s way to Lake Ontario.  Old trees grace it’s shores.  A multitude of birds and animals, including deer, can be spied near it’s banks, bringing the wilderness straight the city.  It has carved deep ravines through the city creating an oasis of peace and silence.  You can be conscious that the city’s hustle and bustle might lay just beyond the crest of that hill but be so far removed from it that all cares and worries are forgotten.  At first glance, it seems slow and calm, but watch the water flow over many of the engineered spillways along its route and witness its mighty power.  At its end, it swells and slows and supports a serene marsh.

 Summerlea Park, Winter 2011

It was first used as a trading and portage route for our First Nations peoples and the “Toronto Carrying Place Trail” follows it’s banks.  Earliest evidence of human settlement along this river points back in time to a possible 10,000 years of human impact on the river.  

Late Fall 2010, Pine Point Park

There is debate as to whether Étienne Brûlé, on behalf of Samuel de Champlain, became the first European to explore and live along the banks of the river, establishing trade and diplomatic relations with the First Peoples here.  One park along the banks of the river is named after him, however many scholars now believe he may have actually located much further west.   

Summer 2010, Magwood Park, Etobicoke

The Humber was vital to the early development of the city.  Fort Toronto was founded at it’s foot where it met Lake Ontario and was a temporary home of the first Lieutenant Governor Simcoe when he first arrived in the area.  Settlement continued to grow outwards from the Fort.  Over time the fast flowing waters powered numerous lumber and grist mills along its banks, providing the materials to build the city and strengthen its economy.  

Kipling Heights Park [not 100% sure on that one - may have been further up river],

Winter 2011, Etobicoke

On the night of October 15, 1954, Hurricane Hazel struck the City with great force.  It is rare for a Hurricane to make its way this far in land, usually they dissipate in strength once they hit landfall, and indeed, while this storm had been downgraded to a tropical storm, it proved to be a powerful one.  Already, it had caused horrendous devastation in Haiti.  It tore through the Carolinas and, instead of losing power, then steamrolled its way northwest to Toronto.  Despite, what was for the time, very accurate weather forecasts, few people paid heed to the warnings.  Storms of this strength had never been experienced here and the naïveté of Torontonians created a lax atmosphere that was unprepared for what was to come.  The storm raged late into the evening.   The water table was already saturated from heavy rains experienced the week prior.  Streams, rivers and creeks were at their peak.  The stage was set for a disaster.  

Memorial to Victims of Hurricane Hazel, Raymore Park, Etobicoke.  This memorial
incorporates 

the remains of a bridge swept away by flood waters. 

The rains of the evening proved too much and large flash floods raged through the City along the Humber River, Don River and Etobicoke Creek, taking residents by surprise.  Many houses were ripped from their foundations, bobbing their way along the rushing waters towards the lake; some residents spending a cold terrifying night on their roofs, waiting for rescue that could not come.  Efforts to aid victims were hampered by the strength of the currents and an inability to find boats of sufficient horsepower to navigate the waters.  Many of the rescuers quickly became stranded themselves or lost their lives to the raging currents.  Thousands were instantly rendered homeless.  Eight-one lives were lost that evening.  Bridges were washed out throughout the city, creating traffic snarls for months after.  Several highways and rail lines were washed away, including the 401, creating headaches to find alternate means to move goods across the country.  To this day, with an estimated cost of at least $1 billion of today’s currency, it remains the largest natural disaster ever recorded in Canada.

Memorial to firefighters lost in the chaos of October 15, 1954.
Their firetruck was swept away as they attempted a rescue.
Home Smith Park, Etobicoke

The Canadian military was called in to deal with relief efforts and clean up.  Relief agencies immediately went into action, raising millions of dollars of funds from all over the world.  Provincial and federal governments expropriated much of the property along these rivers and placed strong restrictions on further development.  National flood plain management and strategies were implemented nationwide to prevent similar disasters elsewhere.  The Toronto and Region Conservation Authority was created to help manage these areas.  These areas are now planned as flood zones, where water can be allowed to move freely through the City without major impact on nearby residents.  Spillways, dams, retention walls and other engineered features along the river help to restrain and minimize flooding and direct the water when needed.  Yet even with all that management, the River is one to be respected.  Flash floods still do occur especially during the Spring thaws or after heavy rains.  Its current is strong.  Along it’s banks lie memorials to victims, many children who have been caught within its grip.  

I shamefully wish I could tell you exactly where this picture was taken, but 

I seriously need to work on my note-taking skills...  Winter, 2011

But out of that horrible devastation, Torontonians were given a special and unique gift.  Deep into the heart of the City, fingers of forestry and nature tangle their way seductively towards the Lake.  Deep forested ravines isolate portions of the rivers from the City creating sanctuaries of greenery and silence.  Long stretches of recreational zones have been created along its banks and are easily accessible to most within the City and provide opportunities for biking, hiking, jogging, rollerblading dog walking, boating and fishing.  Need a first date idea but not a lot of cash?  A stroll along the Humber’s many parks provides an idillic spot to picnic and walk hand in hand.  Bird enthusiast?  The Humber provides plenty of opportunity to spy your avian friends.  Avid cyclist looking for an opportunity to bike a long distance without City traffic?  The numerous bicycle paths along its banks negotiate steep hills and turns and it’s long distance is a good opportunity to work on your endurance.  Don’t have a car but want to experience nature?  This is close enough and is easily accessible all along it’s bank via the TTC.  A portion of the trail system is even accessible by subway via Old Mill station.  

Magwood Park, Summer 2010

In the following weeks, I will continue on with more in depth segments of the parks to be found along it’s path, in chunks that will allow for 2-3 hour hikes.  Several Discovery Walks also line it’s shores and I will focus on them as well.  Hopefully, I can aspire you to get out and take a hike, and if you’ve never been here before, experience a portion of the City that is like no other.  

A mural tribute to the Humber found at Loblaws near Dundas St. W. and Scarlett St.,
Etobicoke

Happy Trails!

Some links of interest:

http://trca.on.ca/protect/watersheds/humber-river/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hurricane_Hazel

http://www.hurricanehazel.ca/

http://archives.cbc.ca/environment/extreme_weather/topics/77/

Urban Exploring - A Walk in the Winter Woods

"Go to the winter woods: listen there, look, watch, and "the dead months" will give you a subtler secret than any you have yet found in the forest." - Fiona Macleod in Where the Forest Murmurs

Today's walk was the kind that a friend of mine has cleverly coined a "CSI Tour".  One of those treks that is so far off the beaten track that she feels I'm likely to either find a body or become a body.  I will admit to a certain foolhardiness but, as commonly pointed out, nothing ventured, nothing gained.  I happen to like knowing what's around every corner even it seems a little scary or dangerous.  Sometimes appearances can be deceiving.

I had to run our vehicle to the shop which was a considerable distance from the dog that I have to walk in the mornings, at least if I were to follow conventional sidewalks.  It was my thought to cut through Crawford-Jones Park and then Pine Point Park and make my way to Islington Avenue from there.  The weather had called for rain.  I usually don't pay too much heed to forecasts other than preparing myself for the worst, the weather is what it is and does what it does and there is very little I can do about it.  However, I was blessed with the rain holding off.  The air was sodden and the sky dim.  It was surprisingly warm and comfortable and I didn't feel the need to dig out my mitts or hat the whole day.


I was a little unsure about the best way to approach the park from Weston Road.  Should I access it from Cardell Avenue or Dee Avenue?  I ended up choosing Cardell, but I could have taken either, both dead end to the park.  The path was not cleared and would have been hard to find if it had not been for the numerous footprints of more experienced visitors of the park.  I had every intention of walking straight to Islington Avenue, running some errands at a nearby shopping complex and then walking over to pick up my pal for his morning exercise, but the explorer bug took over and it was time to get lost in the woods.   I had some time to kill and I knew that geographically I was penned in by the 401, housing, a golf course and train tracks.  Eventually I would find civilization again.  

If you will remember, in a previous entry on Pine Point Park, I had made mention of a small footpath that I had noticed near the pedestrian bridge crossing the Humber River. It had been my assumption that it made it's way towards Islington somehow.  So I was surprised to discover that it actually curves around and makes its way along the South-western bank of the River.  

The path makes its way east a fair distance.  It is obviously well used by both man and beast.  It's hard to tell if it is paved underneath the snow, but I remember that in the fall when I first checked it out, the entrance at least was basically a dirt foot path.  

The constant drone of the highway traffic never dissipates.  Perhaps it is the lack of foliage or the cold, still air, but it is loud and an ever present reminder that I am really still in the city.

The foot tracks peter out considerably at a small, narrow creek, slushily frozen.  A steep hill rises to the south beyond it.  I see some footprints and dog tracks beyond and continue on.

The hill is steep and the snow is deep.  We trod carefully on, my dog and I, unsure of what lays beneath. An old rotting tree, with lots of hollows, reeks of skunk.  Perhaps a den.  Despite my best effort to keep him away, my dog excitedly nosed and sniffed about at the very limits of his leash while I feared a long, smelly walk home.  Thankfully, nothing stirred and I was able to convince my pal to walk on.

Thar be skunks here!

A happy dog is an exploring dog.

The trees grow so tall here, thin, stretching upwards to the sky.  It is so rare to see truly tall trees in the City.  Most urban trees are so stunted compared to their forest cousins.

The tracks that I have been following begin to zigzag through the woods, weaving amongst fallen trees.  Despite seeing many animal tracks, I see not one creature, not even a squirrel.  Even the birds are no where to be found.  The air is still and, despite the omnipresent sound of highway traffic, hushed.

Cresting the hill, we come across a strange formation.  It's hard to tell if it's natural or man-made.  Large, cylindrical and pock-marked like old, worn concrete.  Its presence is jarring.  

Suddenly, we are at the summit of the hill. It is large and flat and treeless.  Tall grasses and other plants tower over the snow.  In the distance I can see familiar highrises.

The footprints that I have been following distinctly end in the middle of the clearing.  Should I turn back?  I've already walked so far, but perhaps there is a reason no one has gone further.  I decide to push onwards, I can always turn back at any point.  I am more curious to see around the bend.  I see mounds of snow and what looks like trees lining a path or road.  It soon becomes clear that the trees are actually at the crests of hills lining a railway track.  As I get closer, I see evidence of what was perhaps a road or paved path once ran near here.  Jagged crusts of asphalt jut out from snow covered piles.

I find myself working my way downhill, forced onto a slender ridge.  There is evidence that a deer ran through here.  To my left, a GoTrain rushes by.  To my right, old, snow-covered train tracks lie abandoned.  Despite all the signs of the city that surrounds me, I feel as if I am in the loneliest place in all of Toronto.

Ahead I can see the ridge narrowing.  The sides are steep.  I will have no choice but to make my way down or go back.  I know better than to try to walk on the train tracks, best to take the abandoned route.

We need to be very cautious.  The old ties are uneven and I come close to tripping several times.  As we walk along, a fence arises to our right, topped in barb wire, with signs urging us to to "STOP!" and warning of demolition activity within its bounds.  All seems quiet today.

Ahead I can see Islington, but begin to fret.  I am blocked on my right by the train tracks and the fencing from my current perspective seems to run right up to the street.  I have driven by here many times, but I can't remember how close the fencing actually runs to Islington.  The tracks run under a bridge and I feel nervous about attempting to cross them.  Trains run fast and quiet sometimes, they can be on you before you know it.  Plus the climb on the other side is very steep, I don't want to risk falling.  But my goal is so close, to double back at this point would be disappointing.  I keep moving on, and am grateful to discover a small street ahead, preventing the fencing from marching up to Islington.  I have a point of egress!  Tired, I am able to cross it and make my way on to Islington.  I still have a long walk ahead.

Useful Information:

• Duration of Walk:  Relatively short walk, but snow makes for difficult terrain in places.  Roughly two hours (based on short legs, picture taking, doggy care and just plain figuring out where the hell I should go)
• Difficulty:  INTERMEDIATE to ADVANCED.  Involved walking in deep snow, trekking off beaten path, unpaved trails, no trails, climbing over obstacles, obstacles hidden in snow, steep climbs and descents and a sense of direction.  This is not accessible for those with mobility issues.
• Parking/Getting There:   For Crawford-Jones Park, parking is available off Dee Ave.   You can access via Pine Point Park by TTC by taking Islington Route 37North and getting off at Allenby St. and walking east several blocks until it dead ends in the park.   Pick up the trail south, going under the 401.  You can pick up the trek from there.  
• Washrooms:  No.  I will note that there was a Port-a-Potty this past summer located by the parking for Pine Point Park, however I cannot vouch whether it was available for public use. 
• Local Coffee Haunts:  No.  
• Safety Factor:  RISKY in some places.  Proceed with caution and at your own risk.  Take a buddy.  
• Special Equipment:  Hiking boots - water-proof and suitable for deep snow.  Warm clothes.  Water and food.  A phone in case you get into trouble.  
• Suitable for Dogwalking?:  Yes.

View Urban Exploring - Crawford Jones and Beyond in a larger map

This Ain't No Skatin' Blog! Colonel Samuel Smith Park, Etobicoke

Skates unloved...

I’m about to admit a deep dark secret, one so profound that it will likely cause mysterious men in sunglasses, black hockey jerseys and toques to enter my house in the dark of night, confiscate my passport, my VHS collection of CBC shows and bottles of maple syrup before whisking me off blindfolded to an undisclosed location deep below the 49th parallel.  

I can’t skate.

There, I feel better now that it’s out.  The number of times that I have donned ice skates can probably be counted on one hand.  And each of those occasions involved more time spent on my ass than on my feet.  For a short time before I took the plunge into motherhood, and therefore sensibility, I did inline skate,  but they always felt better and sturdier.  The wheels are pretty thick and it always felt I had a solid base to work with.  I was never any good at it and again had my fair share of embarrassing on-my-ass time, but I could awkwardly propel myself around parks for some exercise and that was all that mattered.  Ice skates I can’t seem to master.  Tottering on those thin little blades, ankles going here there and everywhere, gliding on sharp knives while everyone else is gliding by on sharp knives.  It’s cold, your toes ache, the skates are as hard and uncomfortable as hell.  I have a lot of respect for people who do it for a living because I have never had anything but a miserable experience on them.  

Thank goodness that this is not a skating blog because then were would we be?  With very few entries, that’s for sure!  This is a hiking blog!  But all the hoopla about the new skating trail at Colonel Samuel Smith Park has gotten me thinking about it and so with that I’ll take a few moments of your time to rave about the park. 

I used to live a few blocks away from the park, when my children were still small enough to be carted about in strollers and wagons, and we spent lots of time there enjoying nature and fresh air and the water.  I had all but forgotten about it after we moved until I was lamenting the lack of choices to exercise my dog and a friend pointed out that there was a new dog park there.  Always looking for new experiences for both myself and my dog, I took the time to drive down several times in October to check it out.  Chatting with another dog owner, he mentioned that the City was building an ice rink there, but he wasn’t sure where.  My friend and I kept our eyes open for it while we roamed but never saw heads or tails of an ice rink, but now I understand the confusion.  This the first ice trail in Toronto and I can’t think of a better place than here.  It’s nice to see the City developing new ways to get people using their parks all year long.  I can’t tell you how many great parks that I have explored over the past year that have been relatively empty but popular parks like High Park remain crowded all day long, seven days a week.  Anything that gets people out, exploring their City and putting to good use everything it has to offer is a good thing.  And the buzz generating around the ice trail will hopefully also get people excited about what is in general a buzz worthy park.

Wetlands

That’s not to say that there hasn’t been controversy over the development of the ice trail.  There have been concerns about the impact it will have on the local environment and the species which make it their home.  Compromises were made and the final design was in the end considered tolerable.  I always have very mixed, stomach tightening feelings about such matters.  I like to think of myself as a fairly green person and love nature.  But when you live in the City, surrounded by concrete and smog and traffic and noise, it becomes very easy to forget about the natural world.  We have removed ourselves too much from that natural world and these parks can go a long way to bringing us back.  Finding an appropriate balance between our needs and those of the world around us is difficult and not to be taken lightly and we certainly need to take steps both individually and as a whole to keep our impact minimal.  But if it takes a skating rink, which is located close the to the entrance of the park, to get people, especially children, outdoors and into the real world, then let’s do it.  

Colonel Samuel Smith was a Lieutenant-Governor of Upper Canada in the early 1800’s.  Born in New York, a loyalist and veteran of the American Revolutionary war, after the war he continued his service under the crown, spending time in England and in New Brunswick  and finally being stationed in the Niagara Region.  Upon his retirement he purchased a 1,000 acre tract (comprising the area between Kipling Avenue and Royal York Road, Bloor Street and Lake Ontario) in Etobicoke and became one of the first settlers in that region. 

The grounds where Colonel Sam Smith Park are located were formerly part of grounds of the Lakeshore Psychiatric Hospital, an important part of our City's collective history.  Opened in 1889, this hospital complex ran for almost 100 years until it’s closure in 1979.  Despite its use in some movie and television productions, it fell into disrepair for a number of years.  Much of the complex is now used by Humber College, Lakeshore Campus.

A reminder that we're still in the City - A view of downtown Toronto

This particular area of Etobicoke is vibrant and active and one of my favourite areas in all of Toronto.  There are lots of independent shops and small, good restaurants and lively pedestrian activity.  Out of the three waterfront parks in this area, this has always been the one that I have noticed to be most used, at least during the weekdays. There is also great access to the park as the Kipling South bus goes right into it.  Numerous species of birds, turtles and beavers can be found here and there are plenty of new, helpful interpretive signs that provide a little bit of insight on much of the local wildlife and environment.  A small wetlands area has been created, which is one my favourite features of the park, it is very picturesque.  Another feature that I love is that it is right on the lake.  Except on the hottest, most still days, there is always a little bit of a breeze and, just like nearby East/West Humber Parks, there is a really great view of the downtown core on clear days.  There are plenty of trees throughout and it is really pretty to visit in the fall.  Trails take you right out to the peninsula and it's great vistas of Lake Ontario.  The trails are part of the Waterfront Trail system which is an ongoing effort to have an extended trail system along the Lakes and St. Lawrence. 

Trees were getting bare

On my last visit there, I went with a friend.  We hit the new dog park first and gave our dogs a good run and then hit the trail.  It was a gorgeous sunny day, although a little on the brisk side, with a good wind.  There were plenty of people out and about except on the long stretch along the peninsula, fellow dog walkers, students and a lone jogger.  This isn’t a massively large park, you could do the whole thing in a leisurely stroll in less than an hour.  But there are all sorts of different environments to check out, from wetlands, to shrubby, rocky waterfront.  Trails are mixed with mostly light gravel surfaces and some paved paths.  If you want to extend your walk, stroll west through my old haunting grounds on Lake Promenade about 20 minutes to Marie Curtis Park, another charming waterfront park with a forested trail following Etobicoke Creek.  The neighbourhood in this area is an interesting mix of old cottage/bungalow style homes and newer, more upscale development and is a great walk.  This is a great park for families with a small playground nearby and lots of learning opportunities around every corner.  

New dog run.

Useful Information: 

• Duration of Walk:  Roughly one hour (based on short legs, picture taking and doggy care)
• Difficulty:  EASY.  Relatively flat terrain.  
• Parking/Getting There:  TTC:  (Subway) Get off at Kipling Station on the Bloor line.  Take the 44 Kipling South straight into the park.  It is the last stop on the bus run. (Streetcar) The 501 Queen Route heading rest stops right at Lake Shore and Kipling and the park is just a short walk down Colonel Samuel Smith Park Dr.   Parking:  There is paid Green P parking available in the park.
• Washrooms:  There is a bathroom at Williams Coffee Shop.  Only available on weekdays.
• Local Coffee Haunts: There is a Williams Fresh Cafe on the Humber Campus.  Strangely, it is not open on weekends. 
• Safety Factor:  SAFE.  There were generally lots of people around, good for daytime treks.  As always though, you should be mindful of your environment and the people around you.  
• Special Equipment: No.  Sneakers should be fine.
• Suitable for Dogwalking?:  YES.  But please keep your dog on a leash.  There are sensitive habitats and dogs can be very disruptive.  

Links of interest:

Colonel Samuel Smith Park

Friends of Sam Smith Park

Waterfront Trails

Guided bird walks:

Citizens Concerned about the Future of the Etobicoke Waterfront

Star Article (with video) on the new ice trail:

http://www.thestar.com/news/article/917950--ice-trail-is-like-a-walk-in-the-park-on-skates




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Westward Ho! Walking Along The Westway and Westward on Chapman Creek

In an earlier post, I explored the eastern portion of Chapman Creek and Ravine.  I’ve also come across references to it known as the Humber Creek, Little Humber Creek, and as Sturgeon Creek.  But the creek doesn’t begin at Royal York Road.  It actually appears to begin between Kipling and Islington Avenues.  A lovely portion of the creek runs between Islington Avenue and Royal York Road.  Here the trek isn’t so strenuous.  A park runs along the entire stretch of the creek between these two roads and the creek is a little more accessible to the urban wanderer. 

I started my journey at Islington, where the creek meets the road.  It runs underneath Islington to the east. Here is it is hidden off the west side of the street in a deep narrow ravine, dense and tangled with trees and bushes.  It was very hard to see and it actually looked quite dry there.  

The creek is in there somewhere...

To make a nice circuit, I travelled south to The Westway.  It is a long stretch here with little to see but tall fences.  Very few residences actually front Islington at this stretch of street.  The Westway is where the fun begins. This is a winding road that runs from Martin Grove Road to Royal York Road, where it becomes Lawrence Avenue.  It is a quiet residential stretch that bends and curves gracefully and climbs and dips over hills.  It is a fun road to drive because of this, and a good way to avoid the traffic on Dixon or Eglinton, and it is certainly a fun walk for all the same reasons.  The street is tree lined and fronted by a strong mix homes from the post-war housing boom to new construction.  Closer to Islington the homes are quainter and older trees line the street.  Had the street been designed in a straight line, it would be a short walk.  But its meandering, light traffic flow and small town feel makes for a lovely stroll.  As you get closer to Royal York road, the road becomes hilly and creates a little bit of a challenge.  It’s also hotter in the summer; newer homes in light coloured brick line this stretch, rammed against the curb, changing the feel of the neighbourhood.  Large paved drives, matching bricked over yards and no trees have created a sun bake which is uncomfortable in the summer.  Thankfully, though you don’t have to swelter for long. 

The creek makes it's way under Royal York Road

Close to where the Westway meets Royal York lies a strip of park land, creating a small oasis of green along Chapman Creek.  To the south of Westway, Valleyfield Park stretches out diagonally to Royal York, with a paved path to lead you there.  It ends kitty-corner to Douglas B. Ford Park.  It is a bit of an alley way, running behind large homes, hemmed in by iron fencing on one side and the creek on the other.  

On the south side of The Westway, the path is tidy and inviting.

To the North of Westway, beginning behind a large cemetery, runs a path which I have never been able to figure out if it is the start of Alex Marchetti Park, or if it is just an alleyway.  The southerly entrance to the park is a little creepy.  The path, while paved, is worn down and is starting to be overcome at the edges by vegetation.  Given that there is a high school a block away, when the weather is good and the leaves on the trees provide more cover, it is a favourite place for young teenage boys to hide out and do pot while cutting classes or during their lunch breaks.  

On the north side of The Westway, nature is slowly taking over and the sense of foreboding is strong.

Fortunately, it is not a long stretch.  The creek here runs gently and at a footbridge that crosses it there are always ducks.  

You lose the path for a short stretch here, there is a grassy park with playground equipment, but if you follow the treeline westerly you will see another little footbridge that takes you back over the creek.  Again, you walk through a short stretch that doesn’t quite feel safe, it’s treed and feels isolated.  There is a surprising amount of foot traffic here, mostly locals taking a shortcut to a nearby grocery store on Royal York.  A five minute walk will find a path to the North that leads to Dixington Crescent.  If you skip this and continue on, you will enter Alex Marchetti Park.  This park was recently upgraded thanks to some fundraising efforts of local moms.  It was previously known as Sun Row Park, but was named after a local city councillor who passed away in 2007.  It has quite a large expanse of open space and is surrounded by trees, a few homes and the creek.  It has two very odd hills.  The one closest to the playground is dirt that was brought in when the upgraded the park and it was allowed to grass over, but a second very large hill at the west end of the park has always puzzled me.  It has never seemed natural.  The path along here runs very close to the creek, but it can be hard to make out in places because of the dense bushes and trees. 

A word to the wise, there are a number of apartment buildings nearby and many of the tenants bring their dogs here in the evening.  Despite the fact that there is a playground close by, many give their dogs free run off leash in the park. 

We hit Islington in short order and made our way home, two tired dogs happy from their adventure.   

Useful Information:

•  Duration of Walk:  Roughly one hour (based on short legs, picture taking and doggy care)
• Difficulty:  MEDIUM The parks are fine and level and paved.  The stretch along The Westway is also paved however it is hilly and could provide some challenge, especially to those with mobility issues.  
• Parking/Getting There:  There is parking at Valleyfield park, next to the tennis courts. Otherwise take the TTC.  37 Islington from Islington subway station will get you there fine and you can get off at The Westway or at Dixon.  You can also take the 58 Malton from the Lawrence West Station, although that's a very long bus ride.  Get off at Islington and go south.  
• Washrooms:  No.    
• Local Coffee Haunts:  No.   
•  Safety Factor: MEDIUM - Walk during the day when there is a lot of foot traffic.
• Special Equipment:  No, this is mostly a residential walk
• Suitable for Dogwalking?: Absolutely.  Always on a leash.